Tuesday, 17 November 2015

7.Blessed are the Cheese-makers.....and allusion to Big Nose- vs Round eyes

We would call it a racist slur...well some would....here it is an ancient and acceptable descriptor of those who would not be from these parts.    China in many ways has a great approach to political correctness.....it doesn't exist.   So if you don't like it...don't visit.   As totalitarian as the regime is here...it is a embracing the 'western ways' with all three hands.
Collars are a bit stiff though.
Terror Cotton worriers.  
Basically it is Empror Chin shu Hons grave.  He ruled from age of 13 to 49, and died from self inflicted over medication.  Built 2200  years ago is 56 sq kms  and only a tiny bit uncovered.     He unified China, built the Great Wall, but he really annoyed and killed lots of people to do it.   The warriors were built over four decades to protect him from revenge in the afterworld.  They are  facing east as most of those he annoyed came from that direction. 

The guide told us that like Chairman Mao the emperor washed their minds   Chin shu horn had scholars killed.

The warriors were discovered by nine, now famous, farmers in March 1974 whilst they were digging a well .   Two of the farmers, cousins, They took a found head  to local council, where they sat for two months until  an archeologist realised what it was.  They were given what equated to $1.00 for their find. 

This was during the Counter revolution so it was kept secret.  They initially thought there were skeletons inside the terra cotta, but this does not seen to be the case.  


At the site it is a huge attraction, the car park is a long way away as they can't be sure that the aren't more bits and pieces buried underneath.   Pit number one is enormous and the building containing this is a feat in itself.  There are apparently  6000 warriors here, but only 2000 have been uncovered. It is a huge process of jigsaw puzzlesputting together.   

Allegedly....no two warriors are the same, they are different heights, stances, girth, faces and expressions.   They were actually armed with their usual weapons.  These have been stolen or rotted away over time.   There are even some crossbows, where the trigger mechanisms are still intact and demonstrate a very advanced knowledge of metal craft, and technology.
Before the party
After the party.

How were they built?
Right, Henry tells us that the pits were dug, and rammed earth walls put in place.  Between these walls the warriors were assembled.  Then a roof was put over the top and earth packed on that.   In some of the places, rebels or grave robbers broke in and destroyed, stole and then in places burnt the gravesite and the rooves caved in, or over time the roof collapsed and earth filled in the places, and then they remained forgotten about for 2000 years.    

The colours are vivid until they are uncovered and the colours fade in a matter of days.  Vivid blues, greens, gold and reds and these are also leached into the soil nearby.

Back to the hotel through the choking traffic but not bezerk like Beijing, and fifty minutes before heading out for the evening tour to see the night lights of Xi'an.  But first to a dumpling restaurant, where we tried 12 different types of dumplings and a taste of the local spirt, called spirit, 46% proof.  Then for a walk through the cultural centre which was lovely clean, and impressively lit, with statues of some of the famous emperors.
One of them on his horse
And another emperor.

There were a number of huge pillars which were running light shows akin to the light shows that are put on in Melbourne at Christmas..

Then to South lake which was a lake used by the emperor some one or other, as his summer home and has several,pavilions on Islands there in.

Next of to the nightly water show at the wild goose pagoda watrer park.   It is the largest water show; fountains lights and music for 30 minutes every night.... It was huge and well frequented by the locals as well as tourists.  

So'in summary Xi'an is as bright and bubbly as Las Vegas, but without the  sleaze and gambling.  It is clean, bright and very colourful.
The ancient city wall, well lit up.







 


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